One of the most persistent myths in aesthetic skin care is that chemical peels are not suitable for Black and brown skin. The truth is more nuanced: melanin-rich skin can respond extremely well to resurfacing — it simply deserves careful treatment planning.
Understanding Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) occurs when inflammation triggers increased pigment production. It can happen in any skin tone, but it is often more noticeable and more persistent in skin with greater baseline melanin. A peel is, by design, a controlled inflammatory event — so the goal is not to avoid peels entirely, but to choose depth, agent and preparation in a way that minimises that risk.
Fitzpatrick Type Matters — Ethnicity Alone Does Not
Treatment should never be selected based on ethnicity alone. Two patients with similar backgrounds can have very different Fitzpatrick types, baseline melanin, barrier health, PIH history and current skincare. We assess Fitzpatrick type, baseline pigmentation, previous PIH, inflammation, acne, scarring history, current skincare and sun exposure before recommending anything.
Superficial vs Deeper Peels
For melanin-rich skin, conservative treatment usually wins. A more superficial peel, a different peeling agent, adjusted preparation or a staged plan may all be more appropriate than reaching for the strongest acid. Deeper protocols carry considerably more caution because pigmentary alteration and scarring can occur. The best peel is not the strongest peel — it is the right peel for your skin.
Skin Preparation and SPF
Preparation and aftercare are as important as the peel itself. Clinician-directed changes to retinoids, acids and exfoliation before treatment, and diligent broad-spectrum SPF afterwards, are central to reducing PIH risk. UV exposure after a peel can worsen pigmentation and compromise the outcome.
Why Ethnicity Is Not a Treatment Protocol
There is no single "skin of colour peel." A protocol built around a label rather than an individual assessment is not safer — it is less precise. Your skin tone should inform your treatment, never exclude you from the conversation.